However, the buttons on most remote controls are too small for a costumed operator. My werewolf claws can't tell if they are on the button.

Additionally, the battery life and effective range of the remotes I've tried is less than ideal.
So I set out to design a remote control that is more costume-friendly.
My requirements:
- Large buttons
- Control multiple devices
- Long battery life
Next, the physical interface. I decided on a black PVC tube, with a large selector knob on one end and a large activation button on the other end. The selector knob will set the operating mode (OFF/1/2/3/4/PROGRAM) and the large button does whatever the current operating mode is set to.
However, I need a way to determine what the current operating mode is, in the dark, without rotating the knob back to OFF and counting clicks forward. I decided to include a 7-segment LED behind a red lens to show the current device number (or a period when in PROGRAM mode)
In order for the selector switch to control power, device selection, program mode and 7-segment LED digits, it needs to be a "four pole" rotary switch. Although the RemoteLinc2 supports 8 devices, I decided 4 was enough. 4 plus OFF and PROGRAM means the selector switch needs 6 positions, so it needs to be a "four pole six throw" (4P6T) rotary switch.
Newark sells one made by Electroswitch that is quite well made. Part number is C4D0406S-A. It was a special order. This is the "shorting" type rather than the "non-shorting" type. Shorting, or "make before break" is requried since one of the four poles carries power to the InlineLinc and it needs to stay ON between mode changes 2-6 (1-4 plus PROGRAM).
I came up with a simple way for the selector switch to control the 7-segment LED so it shows 1-4 based on the switch position - using a network of diodes. The diodes prevent current from flowing in the opposite direction and turning on all the connected segments. However, since current flows from negative to positive the 7-segment LED needs to be of the Common Anode (anode=positive) variety.
The RemoteLinc2 requires a regulated 3.9VDC power supply to operate correctly. I wanted to be able to run the remote off of either 9-volt (used on my UV LEDs or blinking eyes) or AA (five times the life) batteries and the voltage regulator actually made this possible. I can connect a 4xAA pack or a single 9V battery to the battery snap connector that goes to the voltage regulator and I will always get 3.9VDC. The voltage regulator circuit and the diode network went on a couple of round PCBs purchased from the neighborhood Radio Shack.
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The round PCBs are glued to three nylon rods spaced equidistant from eachother and the whole assembly slides into the PVC housing.
It's fairly easy to hold while wearing a costume, and one hand can slip to either the selector knob or the activation button while the other hand holds onto the body.

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